Thursday, November 21, 2019

Three days in CCU in jumbled order


Day 2: The Ladies of IIT

The last few days have been interesting. I have never spent only three days in Kolkata. It has been an intriguing thing to be here with only my mother. Because she’s older now and gets tired more quickly (or at least admits to being tired), we had to keep boundaries on activities. No crazy trips, no adventurous curiosities or misguided tourist outings, all features of our previous trips to India seemed to have. Or, maybe she’s saving them for later. I think so because she kept lamenting that I had to go back so quickly. It is a pity that my mom didn’t get more chances to travel with her kids to see what she wanted to see in India. She had a growing list of places she wanted to show me more focused on her own memories rather than big-ticket items (e.g. Taj Mahal, which I've been to twice). 

The most important place my mother wants to see is her graduate school in Kharagpur. This place, Kharagpur, is the crown jewel of my mother's memories. In the late ’60s, she spent about three years at the most elite technical university in India. IIT is like the equivalent of going to MIT or Caltech. You need to be super brainy to set foot there. They admit only 2% of the students who apply or something ridiculous like that. She was there through her own merit and studying to get her Ph.D. in Statistics (which she was awarded in 1968). She did not have to pay for it because once you got in, it was paid for, I believe. This fact about my mother is burned like a tattoo in my mind. It is, let’s say, a very important part of her life. The subsequent events of her life always seemed to pale in comparison to IIT. This includes mundane things like getting married, being a supportive wife (which she was), having children, and running a household. All nuisances. My mother’s true passion in life was always to achieve the professional respect that men seem to be entitled to, even when they are less than amazing professionally. I think I share that viewpoint, but I've been lucky enough in my life to be able to attempt and pursue this less cultural weight than my mother had, although I have to say, the American Midwest also has a long way to go in terms of gender roles. I was lucky in some ways not to be tied to either one fully. It was a little freeing. 

Despite living with parents who were somewhat feminist in their thinking, I found the constant IIT reminder a little annoying for most of my life. It was partially because of the extreme elitism while being surrounded by a culture that valued stoic humility and understatedness (American Midwest).  But also, it was kind of like listening to a high school football quarterback who can’t stop talking about that game when he had to make the winning field goal. It was my mother’s glory story. And it got old for me, personally. The part that I was less sensitive to, as a child and adolescent, and then teenager, and even adult, was that my mother was eternally overshadowed by my father because she had taken on the role of the wife rather than equal professional. An unfortunate cultural baggage issue that she simply couldn’t resolve. The actual reality is that what she'd achieved in the 1960s remains a difficult challenge for women, even today. 


Day 2 (Glory days)

True to herself and IIT, she had already arranged (on Day 2 of my three-day stop in Kolkata), a reunion with her friends from IIT. These were only women. All of them were women who earned advanced degrees in technical subjects during the 1960s from an institute comprised mostly of men. Not only that, they had done so in one of the most blatantly patriarchal countries on Earth. Most of them went on to have careers as professors, heads of departments, and one even founded an entire school. These women are actually incredible individuals. I think there are a lot of interesting stories and experiences I'd love to hear.

We all had lunch together, and I got to know the ladies. This is when my excellent passive bilingualism really came in handy (the whole trip so far, really, even my less than excellent Hindi has been helpful).  I could respond in my mediocre Bengali pretty readily to all inquiries and took in fully these wonderful comments and personalities. I even got a few contact numbers, so maybe I will be able to collect a few stories.
Mom meeting her friends after ages
Lunch meeting
After lunch, the gals hung out a while longer and reminisced about old times. They even sang a song (I took a video, I knew this song as a kid and still kind of know it), ate sweets, and one of them even brought a bag full of books to share. It was so incredibly stereotypical and entirely within context. I understood all of it, and it explained everything about my parents, whom I've known out of context for my entire life. Bengalis of a very specific generation were like this. The Indian Bengali post-Independence Achievers. 










Tuesday, November 19, 2019

Dreamland

Today was pretty chill. We arranged for a car, and we had a few errands. First, we had to check out this place my mom was interested in renting a little longer term. Initially, it seemed like a good idea, based on the Airbnb listing. And honestly, it was decent enough. But it isn't where she wants to stay. It reminds me of those movies when someone is let out of jail and they go back to the real world and realize they no longer fit anywhere.

Today, while we were drinking tea in a really loud hip cafe among teenage Indians smoking hookahs, I told her that she is, in fact, a foreigner in India. This is no longer her country. She agreed to some extent, but she also said she was happy that things are easier in India now. Simple activities like paying for things with a credit card, or getting a decent hotel with hot water. She's right. Even in my lifetime, that's changed. At the same time, she feels foreign and annoyed. And maybe displaced from her own identity? She didn't say that. That's me interpreting. Although, this is exactly why I dumped the vacation days to come here.

And here's our delicious, steaming tea.



There is a term, "ABCD", that is frequently used for kids who have Indian parents and grow up in America. I am an (aging) ABCD, for example. The acronym is not particularly complimentary. It stands for "American Born Confused Desi" (Desis are Indians). It's always been my point of view that I'm not the confused one. There is very little for me to be confused about in terms of identity. My skin is brown, but the words coming out of my mouth are the midwestern US. I'm a person with cultural influences that color the way I see the world. So what. The influences have resulted in a point of view about social and political issues that generally skews slightly empathetic toward the misunderstood, or those who do not fit exactly into a majority. However, I'm 100% American to me. I've never veered from that answer. I am not a fan of identity politics because it's exhausting. I'm a fan of civil rights.

So, I coined the IBCD a while ago. That's the Indian Born Confused Desi. That's a person who was born in India and is generally confused about who they are and what they want. It changes. They started out leaving India in search of glory and fame. They came to America and realized they had to work really hard. My mother and father's generation was underappreciated, exploited, and never fully accepted in the United States. Their entire lives were a long assimilation process. They were cultural pioneers.  Because of that generation, younger generations showing up in the US do not have to work quite as hard on cultural integration (unless they choose a ridiculous place to live, like, say, South Dakota or Idaho). Everyone knows where India is now. Everyone knows about Indian food. Half of the motels in the US are owned by Indians. That's a real fact. Indian weddings. Bollywood. Yoga. The "ABCD" generation votes and has jobs in the US. Yoga is a part of the US economy. I don't know if anyone cares about cultural pioneers anymore, but they were brave back then. It was like going to Mars, really. Look at what's happened: it's next to impossible to go back home.

Monday, November 18, 2019

Under 10 Days

Arriving SFO for our 30 hour journey
A few months ago my mom really got after me that she wanted to go to India. I know she’d been planning to go, but she had been saying it for the past four years, and nothing had really happened, so I figured this was one of those times. But....

And so, here I am in the amazing Singapore transit hotel, burning my vacation time in order to "drop my mom off" in India. Neel's got the kids. It's the longest I've ever gone away from them. There are three pages of detailed instructions and promises of presents when I get back. But they were still crying at the airport. I had to hold my sh*t together for that. I was truly torn in duty, but there are some things you just have to do. No weddings this time around. But I'll take pictures. 

Nowadays, this sort of "drop off" is more common given the exponential increase in Indian immigrants abroad. However, this trip is waaaay more complex for not only my mother but me as well. This is my mom's first trip to India as a widow. It's my first trip since I was married without my husband and/or kids along for the ride. This is a mom-daughter trip. The last time we did this was when I was 25 years old and unmarried. Side note: In retrospect, I am pretty sure that trip was something my grandmother instigated because no girls should continue to be unmarried after age 25 per Hindu rules. Note: I got married much later, at 32. Everything is going fine so far with that. I am sure my grandmother occasionally peeks in on me (spiritually, perhaps) to make sure. 

Takeoff from Hong Kong (14/30 hours done)
To be completely honest, I'm not sure what to expect of India on this trip. I don't even see this one as a trip to India like the others, where we see amazing things (like a guy getting struck by lightning at the Taj Mahal, or some crazy wedding). This trip is almost entirely about my mom. Like a biopic (incidentally, on the plane, I watched a French film about Buddhist Chinese families assimilating in France and it had me in tears by the end, so this trip might be a doozy for me or I might just be so set in my ways that I have nothing to say anymore). In addition, I've never done a trip to India and back in under 10 days. That's another key feature of this one. It's a little crazy. I'm compressing a visit to my ancestral homeland, my in-laws on the other side of India, and my best friend from college into under 10 days. On the other hand, maybe this is no big deal. 

On a lighter note, this airport is so fun. There's too much shopping, and there is a pool on the roof of the airport itself. Those who know me well know I'm a little bit of an aviation nerd (the takeoff from San Francisco in the 777-300ER was magnificently graceful so shout out to the pilot, the plane, and the air conditions that night), and that I enjoy a good pool, so one can imagine how excited I was about the airport rooftop pool here. I almost fell asleep in the "jacuzzi", which really isn't that hot, since it's 90 F outside. The breeze made it downright dreamy to be in that pool. 

This is the airport rooftop pool. I loved it. 




At last, I am home

Back to SFO Well, that was fast! I experienced so much in a short time. There's nothing like a whirlwind trip to India via Singapore....